This is a quick little primer to assist a new player to Texas Hold’em Poker.  Actually, it’s a short read, but if you don’t even know the poker hand rankings (you’re REALLY new to Poker in general) so there’s additional info at the very end of this little guide that tells you what hand beats what.  What I suggest is to get out a deck of cards and deal some fake hands to some fake players after you read through this.  You’ll get the hang of handling the cards and seeing types of hands to be dealt.  If you’ve got some chips, toothpicks or matches, play some mock hands before your real game/tournament.  You’ll be surprised how much better you’ll do with a little practice.

The Game of Texas Hold’em

Blinds:

Blinds are simply blind bets.  To start a new hand, two ‘blind’ bets are put up or ‘posted.’ The player immediately to the left of the dealer puts up or ‘posts’ the small blind with half the minimum bet.  The player to the left of the small blind posts the big blind which is equal to the minimum bet.  The rest of the players do not put up any money to start the hand. Because the deal rotates around the table, each player will eventually act as the big blind, small blind and dealer.

Start of Play:

Each player is dealt two cards face down with the player on the small blind receiving the first card and the player with the dealer button getting the last card.  The first betting round begins with the player to the left of the big blind either matching the big blind to ‘Call’ the blind bet, or doubling it to ‘raise’ the big blind or folding his hand.  Players must raise in the same increments as the bets made.

The betting goes around the table in order until it reaches the player who posted the small blind.  That player can call the bet by putting in matching what has been played before him (noting he/she already had half the big blind already posted). The last person to act is the big blind.  If no one has raised, the dealer should ask if they would like the option.  This means the big blind has the option to raise or just ‘check/pass.’  By checking the player does not put in any more money.

*NOTE:   A novice mistake often occurs here.  Because the blind is a live bet, the player with the big blind has already put his bet in.  Many times players throw their cards in, if he didn’t like them, not realizing that they are already in the hand.  Another rookie mistake is betting or folding your cards when it is not your turn.  You must play in turn, that is, wait before you act.

The Flop:

After the first betting round is completed, three cards are dealt and turned face up in the middle of the table. This is known as the ‘Flop.’ These are community cards used by all the players. Another betting round begins with the first active player to the left of the dealer button. The bet for this round is again two dollars. 

Listen Up! THESE CARDS ARE NOT GOING ANYWHERE!  So watch your opponents and not the cards!  What you’re looking for are Pleasure/Pain Reactions.  These are auto-responses that most people just can’t help making.  They’re called ‘tells’ and learning to pick these subtle signs up will separate you from the pack quickly because you’re not really playing the cards…you’re playing the player.

The Turn: 

When the betting round after the flop is completed, the dealer turns a fourth card face up in the middle of the table. This is called the ‘Turn.’ The bet after the turn (and the river) is double what the first two betting rounds were and begins again with the first active player to the left of the dealer.  Again, watch your opponent (for tells), not the turned over card…it’s going nowhere.

The River: 

Following the betting round for the turn, the dealer will turn a fifth and final card face up. This is called the ‘river,’ and the final betting round begins.   Always watch for subtle signs.

The Showdown:   

To determine the winner, the players may use any combination of their two hole cards and the five cards on the ‘Board’ (Table) to form the highest five-card hand. In some rare cases the best hand will be the five cards on board. Don’t count on this happening too often. In that case the active players will split the pot. A sixth card is never used to break a tie.

THE THREE P’s:

Okay, this primer is based on a simple ‘Three P’s’ premise that’s easy to remember: POWER, PATIENCE and POSITION.  You need to think of these three concepts much like the three cords of a rope.  They all work together; none more important than the other; yet each is considered separately in each decision made in your play.  When the cards are dealt…DON’T LOOK AT YOUR CARDS…pick up any information you’re able as your opponents peak at theirs…then take a breath…consider…with deliberate PATIENCE…your POSITION in relation to the dealer…then appraise your hand and determine its value in relation to POWER and the information you gathered…and decide whether to play or fold.  Easy.

POWER

The term ‘Power’ refers to Power Deck.  That is, in considering what is or isn’t a good starting hand use the POWER DECK.  What is the Power Deck?  Well, each suit has thirteen cards, 2 through Ace…Ace being high.  The Power Deck is the top third of the suit or 10-A.  And in a couple positional situations a few others to be explained later.

(For a novice) Your two ‘hole cards’, those first two cards dealt, should be from the Power Deck.  In time, you’ll grasp concepts as to how to play lesser cards, but for the time being, play from the POWER DECK.  If they are connected, like KQ, they have MORE POWER!  If they are suited, even MORE POWER!  If they’re paired, they have more POWER yet, i.e. KK or QQ!  Point being, the best starting hand you can be dealt is two Aces, but an AK suited is a very good starting hand as well.

Why not call a bet with, let’s say…J-2 or even 7-2 off suit?  Although any two cards can and will be played; and literally any three cards can and will come up on the flop…there are no five cards that could possibly make a straight out of J-2 or 7-2; and the flush that might be made if they were suited would be so weak that I’d be frightened to play it for fear of a larger one against me. 

PATIENCE

Therefore, consider the second ‘P’, PATIENCE.  This may be the toughest part of the game.  We are so anxious to be a part of the action that we end up playing weak hands and thus, losing our chips.  Either that or we get bored and start firing at pots hoping to make something happen, but it rarely does.  So here’s a solution:  go to school on your opponents.  That’s right, study those players that ARE involved in hands and absorb their ‘tells’.  If you make a promise to yourself that you’re only going to play, say 5% or 10% or the hands dealt to you, then that gives your 90% to 95% of the time at the table to study your opponents. 

Pick out a different one each hand and watch how they handle their chips, their facial expressions, their hand gestures, their eyes, their ticks, their mouth, their breathing, their veins, even the hair on their arms or just their voice inflections.  Then – and this is important – try to get a read on whether they THINK they have the winning hand or not.  It doesn’t make any difference whether they do win or not, but whether they THINK they are going to.  Because until the end, their body is reacting the same as though they are winning.  Or on the other hand, if you caught them bluffing, what was that ‘tell’?  Make mental notes so that when it does come time for you to tangle with them and you see those sorts of signs they might as well be showing you their cards.

If all you do is play fewer hands you’ll do better than the average rookie, but if you utilize the down time by studying your opponents, you might have a shot at some prize money.  Why can you come out ahead simply by play fewer hands?  Because while you’re NOT expending your chips others are and in tournament play, once you’re out, you’re out.  So you just might end up in the money by outlasting some.

PATIENCE also plays a part in POSITION because like in no other Poker game Texas Hold’em (and her sisters), POSITION plays as important role as any other element.

POSITION

Question:  What do you need to make any important decision in your life?

Answer:  Information.

Whether it’s regarding what color socks to wear, what house to buy or who you’re going to marry…you need information to make a decent decision.

Because of the unique structure Texas Hold’em, POSITION and knowledge of how to use it becomes a strategic advantage in the game. 

Position is simply where you are sitting in relation to the dealer's button.  The strength of your POSITION comes from the fact that the betting goes in a clockwise fashion rather than in other forms of Poker; by high/low card.  In a favorable POSITION you get to see how many other players react to their hands and whether they fold, bet, or call before you do.  The poker phrase, "POSITION is power" comes from this simple idea.

There are many names associated with POSITION to identify where players are sitting in relation to the dealer's button. Each particular POSITION has its own strengths or weaknesses.

The small blind has the worst POSITION after the flop and must invest half a bet.  The big blind invests an entire bet and similarly has a poor POSITION.  The player under the gun has the worst POSITION pre-flop and a junk POSITION afterwards.  The button has the best POSITION during any betting round.

In short, the simple rule of thumb to follow is that you must have strength to play from weaker POSITIONS, that is, POWERFUL starting hands; but you can afford to call unraised pots with weaker hands from stronger POSITIONS.  That is, fundamentally because your opponents have allowed you to ‘limp’ into a pot and you are hoping to connect on the flop.

This DOES NOT GIVE YOU PERMISSION TO PLAY WEAK HANDS FROM STRONG POSITION.  It only is a strategy to use to mix up your image.

IMAGE –

Player image is the perception that opponents have for one another.  A player is either passive or aggressive; they are tight or loose.  What you want to do is have a confusing image.  It is always best to be considered tight/aggressive.  That is, you only play the ‘nuts’, the hands that win and when you have it you bet seriously.  That breeds fear.  Do this with regularity and down the road your bluff will work flawlessly.

Simplified Starting Hand Theory

Tournament Starting Hands Guide - Conservative Approach  -

From Early Position (first 2 players to act): Pairs 10-10 to A-A, A-K off-suit and A-Q suited.

From Middle Position (places 3-6 to act): Pairs 8-8+, A-J off suit or better + K-Q.

From Late Position (Button and Cut-Off): Pairs 7-7+, Any Ace + Suited Connectors J-10+

I suggest for the conservative player is that these hands should be raised when no other player has already entered the pot. Where a player acting before you has already raised the pot, you need a hand from a higher group, compared to your position in order to call. That is to say; if you are in middle position and someone has raised the pot ahead of you, then you need an 'early position' hand to call this bet.

To clarify, the ‘early position’ players are those just beyond the Small and Large Blinds. The Blinds are committed to some degree to their hands. That is not to say a player should ignorantly call a raise in the Big Blind or complete a bet in the Small Blind with poor Starting Hands. If the situation calls for an Aggressive Approach and the players are such that a call or even a raise is in order, by all means play the game, but do not chase ‘dead money’. Once it is in the pot it is no longer yours.

Tournament Starting Hands Guide - Aggressive Approach -

Hand Requirements To Raise: Any Pair, Any Ace, Any 2 Face-Cards + Suited Connectors 4-5 and higher.

Take Note: that there are no specific requirements for position here. The idea being that an aggressive player will raise to open a pot with these hands from any position. If someone has already raised the pot, then the requirements must tighten up.

TIPS

*NOTE:   Many players will play any two suited cards from any position and they will play an Ace with any small kicker. These hands are losers in the long run and you should avoid getting into the habit of playing them. They are traps that will cost you money.

The Blinds -

Once you post your blind the money no longer belongs to you. Many players feel they must defend their blinds by calling all raises even with marginal hands. Don’t waste additional money on marginal hands.  Also, don’t automatically call with the small blind if you have nothing.  Saving a half bet will pay for your next small blind.  Does that make sense?  Just because you have a blind bet or half a bet in the blind doesn’t mean you must call a raise if you have a weak hand.  FOLD A WEAK HAND AND LIVE TO FIGHT ANOTHER DAY.  Don’t through money down a rat hole.

The Flop -

Deciding whether to continue playing after seeing the flop will be your second biggest decision. It can also be one of the most costly decisions if you continue after the flop with a weak hand. It is said that the flop defines your hand. That is, if your hand is not made on the flop, don’t get in the habit of ‘chasing’ or it will ruin you.  If you’ve gone to the flop with a small pair and didn’t get a third one on the flop don’t call.  If you didn’t improve your straight or flush (turn it into at least a 4 card straight/flush), don’t chase.   

The Turn -

If you think you have the best hand after seeing the Turn card and are first to act, then go ahead and bet.  Many players will try to get fancy and attempt to check raise in this position.  If the other players also check, you have lost a bet or two.  In low limit games the straight forward approach is usually the best as there are plenty of players who will call you.  Make them pay.  Why give them a free card if you don’t have to.

If there’s a raise on the turn and you hold only one pair you are more than likely beaten and should fold.

If you get to the Turn and you hold only two unsuited over-cards (two cards higher than any cards on the board) with no flush or straight draws, then you should fold if there is a bet in front of you.  Too much money is lost by players who hope to catch a miracle card on the river.  The best hand you can make with two unsuited over-cards is a pair which will probably lose anyways.

Other Goodies -

What Beats What

Royal Flush - This is the highest poker hand. It consists of Ace, King, Queen, Jack, Ten, all in the same suit.  As all suits are equal, all royal flushes are equal.

Straight Flush - Five cards of the same suit in sequence - such as J-10-9-8-7.  Between two straight flushes, the one containing the higher top card is higher.  An Ace can be counted as low, so 5-4-3-2-A is a straight flush, but its top card is the Five, not the Ace, so it is the lowest type of straight flush. The cards cannot "turn the corner":  4-3-2-A-K is not valid.

Four of a kind - Four cards of the same rank - such as four Queens.  The fifth card can be anything.  This combination is sometimes known as "quads", and in some parts of Europe it is called a "poker", though this term for it is unknown in English.  Between two fours of a kind, the one with the higher set of four cards is higher - so 3-3-3-3-A is beaten by 4-4-4-4-2.  It can't happen in standard poker, but if in some other game you need to compare two fours of a kind where the sets of four cards are of the same rank, then the one with the higher fifth card is better.

Full House - This consists of three cards of one rank and two cards of another rank - for example three Sevens and two Tens (colloquially known as "Sevens full" or more specifically "Sevens on Tens").  When comparing full houses, the rank of the three cards determines which is higher.  For example 9-9-9-4-4 beats 8-8-8-A-A.  If the threes of a kind were equal, the rank of the pairs would decide.

Flush - Five cards of the same suit. When comparing two flushes, the highest card determines which is higher.  If the highest cards are equal then the second highest card is compared; if those are equal too, then the third highest card, and so on.  For example K-J-9-3-2 beats K-J-7-6-5 because the Nine beats the Seven.

Straight - Five cards of mixed suits in sequence - for example Q-J-10-9-8.  When comparing two sequences, the one with the higher ranking top card is better.  Ace can count high or low in a straight, but not both at once, so A-K-Q-J-10 and 5-4-3-2-A are valid straights, but 2-A-K-Q-J is not.  5-4-3-2-A is the lowest kind of straight, the top card being the Five.

Three of a Kind - Three cards of the same rank plus two other cards.  This combination is also known as Triplets or Trips. When comparing two threes of a kind the hand in which the three equal cards are of higher rank is better. So for example 5-5-5-3-2 beats 4-4-4-K-Q.  If you have to compare two threes of a kind where the sets of three are of equal rank, then the higher of the two remaining cards in each hand are compared, and if those are equal, the lower odd card is compared.

Two Pairs - A pair is two cards of equal rank. In a hand with two pairs, the two pairs are of different ranks (otherwise you would have four of a kind), and there is an odd card to make the hand up to five cards.  When comparing hands with two pairs, the hand with the highest pair wins, irrespective of the rank of the other cards - so J-J-2-2-4 beats 10-10-9-9-8 because the Jacks beat the Tens.  If the higher pairs are equal, the lower pairs are compared, so that for example 8-8-6-6-3 beats 8-8-5-5-K.  Finally, if both pairs are the same, the odd cards are compared, so Q-Q-5-5-8 beats Q-Q-5-5-4.

Pair - A hand with two cards of equal rank and three other cards which do not match these or each other. When comparing two such hands, the hand with the higher pair is better - so for example 6-6-4-3-2 beats 5-5-A-K-Q. If the pairs are equal, compare the highest ranking odd cards from each hand; if these are equal compare the second highest odd card, and if these are equal too compare the lowest odd cards. So J-J-A-9-3 beats J-J-A-8-7 because the 9 beats the 8.

High Card - Five cards which do not form any of the combinations listed above. When comparing two such hands, the one with the better highest card wins.  If the highest cards are equal the second cards are compared; if they are equal to the third cards are compared, and so on. So A-J-9-5-3 beats A-10-9-6-4 because the Jack beats the Ten.

On the next page you’ll find a very simplified ‘Starting Hand’ guide meant to be just that…a guide. Each play, each decision is independent and requires judgment based on circumstances at that moment. The player, position and many other factors and conditions go into each and every choice made.

Although those choices are either Call, Fold, Raise and sometimes Check, there are no cut-and-dried rules as to Starting Hands. All that being said, if you utilize the following as a guide as you perfect your skills you’ll do better than most.

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